BRION! CROCODILE RAFT  UNSINKABLE:  (Not like the Titanic)

This  raft  is  good for 2 to 5 persons but  the  logs  MUST
measure  at least 0.40m in diameter and from 3 to  4  meters
long. Fig:1

1)   Take 2 big logs and cut them with 2 sharp points at bow
     "V"  cut 4 #meplats# "M" in the same perpendicular  way
     as V
     
2)   Couple  or joined by 2 crossed bars "F" the logs  being
     parallel  and separated from one another at 1.50m  from
     #axial to axial#
     
3)   Split in two another log to get pieces "A" fig: 2 & "B"
     fig:1

4)   Join "B" in "MM" at rear (stern) using 2 stakes " H H "

5)   Using  2  forked branches "G" make in middle of  "B"  a
     #tollet# to use an oar steering.

6)   Pierce 2 holes in crosswise at each end of "A" and  use
     a saw to cut 2 notches(slot) "E E" fig: 2

7)   Fix  "A" on "M M" forward using 4 stakes in X to  avoid
     any tear.

8)   Pierce the vertical hole "Z" for the mast.

9)   Nail the board "N" just under with a hole in its centre
     right  under  the hole of "Z" this will hold  the  mast
     real fine.
     
10)  Fix in the 2 stakes "U U"
11)  Nail a plank platform "S S" fig: 3 on 2 poles "P P"

12)   Nail and tie using #brelage# "L L" the  poles  "P"  on
     half log C.

13)   Pierce  2  holes "T" connecting to the spread  of  the
     stake U.

14)  Join  as  seen of fig 5, the photo of fig  4  can  show
     best.


15)  Raise the mast in the hole "Z"

16)  The  sail will be a square tarp stretch on the mast  by
     "K" using a #stretcher# "Y Q" moored to a stake "U".
     
17)  Make  the stakes "U" high enough so that you can fix  2
     oars  should the wind die down & you have  to  row  the
     boat.
     
ADDED NOTES:

REMEMBER between each beam it's 5 feet wide and from "M"  to
the "V" end its 2 feet long and fairly sharp to cut water.
The  mast spar is 10 to 12 feet high and will not need brace
or  stays you could use a 20 foot spar or mast but then  you
would  need  braces made of rope or wires and a bigger  sail
thus lot  more work for not that much more speed.

The  2  main  logs  with 10 inch diameter  are  good  enough
(heavy). On a 12 feet mast you leave 1 foot clear at top and
bottom  to  hitch the sail which is 10 feet high by  9  feet
wide  at  the  top  and 11 feet at the bottom  if  you  can,
otherwise try 10 X 10.

Your  sail is riveted or attached every 6 inches apart.  You
can use any strong material and even fibreglass material for
garage. The rudder is about 1 1/2 feet in the water.

And  you  should make about 5 to 7 knots/hour. Depending  of
the wind of course. The length of the crocodile is 12 to  13
feet from bow to stern.

INDIAN RAFT:

To use only on small lake or flat calm waters, not across an
ocean. You cut 3 dry log 15 feet long and about 9 inches  in
diameter.

Place  them  in a fan shape and throw across about  15  tall
spruce  branches to use as a platform then using a  pole  of
about  12 feet you can push this raft to cross a small  lake
or  to  reach  a beaver which you have shot and  the  floats
away.

No need to tie anything down since your weight and the water
pressure  will hold everything together nicely it is  called
the Kinetic force.

CANOE:#GIRON#:

Bottom  curve in the longitudinal sense. For the open  canoe
the  #giron  will be less pronounced (deep)  #  whereas  the
curve  of the slalom canoe will be much pronounced and  will
give  the shape of a banana to the canoe. The canoe will  be
much more managing but its speed will be diminished lot.

USE OF KEEL:

Their  use  is  to  diminish the lateral (side)  sweep  when
navigating with a side wind. Thus the canoe is more  stable.
This  is why a canoe with 3 keels will be very practical  if
crossing  great lakes or at sea shore where  there  is  much
wind or for fishing / hunting.

But  the  keel  has  also problems since  it  is  much  more
difficult to move around, so if you are going down rivers  &
rapids or to do slalom or if there are few lakes the  it  is
much preferable to use a canoe without keel.

Whereas if  you do  much lakes and few rivers then it's best
with keel. Once can  also  do  rivers & rapids with one keel
canoe  but  you better reinforce the canoe with fibreglass
and resin.  These types  of  canoes have a false keel inside
to reinforce  the canoe but it is thus more heavy.

CANOE HEIGHT:

Meaning the difference between the bottom part of the  canoe
and the above height of the central bar. For a 16 foot canoe
the  height  vary between 13 to 15 inches. If the  canoe  is
high  the advantage will be that the waves will get in  less
often  by  the  sides  but  the canoe  will  feel  more  the
influence  of the wind and will have tendency to  go  adrift
(leeway).

For your security the height MUST NOT be LESS than 12 inches
because  once  your luggage and yourself in the  canoe,  you
will  be  near water level and water will get  in  with  the
least wave and wind plus you may have to bring extra gear or
person who is not ready to swim yet.

Beside  the fact that if the height is less than  12  inches
our  head  will hit the bottom of the canoe while portaging
and will force you to walk forward inclined thus a real pain
in the neck.

POINT SHAPE:

The  high  elevated point even drawn back of the old  Indian
canoe  permits  very well to cut the waves and  not  to  get
water in from the point but also offer greater resistance to
the wind.

LENGTH OF THE CANOE:

The  10-12-14  feet long canoe are too easy  to  capsize  to
consider.  The smaller a canoe is the more easy to  capsize.
The ideal length for an expedition is 16 feet which makes an
all  around  canoe. It has the primordial  qualities  of  an
expedition canoe, not too heavy in portage, can load  up  to
600 lbs man and luggage included.

Very  comfortable since you don't have the  feet  jammed  in
under the benches as with the 12 or 14 feet. Safe since  you
can  cross waves up to 3 to 4 feet no problems.

A  canoe  of more  than 16 feet can be used if there are
many men in  the canoe,  in that case the most often used is
the C-6  or  the war  canoe, it has 22 feet long and can
take 6 men and their luggage. Most often used to go down big
rivers or big lakes. General rule of thumb to calculate each
foot adds 5  lbs  to the weight and 70 lbs in its cargo pay load.

WATERPROOF LOCKER:

It  is  necessary to have them on fibre glass or  Al.  canoe
because  it  is  them that insures the floatability  of  the
canoe.  The wooden canoe with tarp does not need  it,  being
made of wood.

#PLATBORDS RAILING?#:

It is important that there is #plat-bord# since they are the
ones  to solidify, strengthen the canoe frame, offering also
an  excellent holding to manipulate the canoe and  stop  the
waves to come in over the #franc-board#.

They  MUST be double meaning one inside and one outside  the
hull  thus permitting to attach the seats and to give a good
holding for the bars and also to maintain the balance  while
portaging by placing the hands inside the canoe #railing#.

#Plat bord# IN WOOD OR ALUMINIUM?:

In  wood for the wooden canoe and in aluminium for the fibre
glass  canoe.  The  wooden one MUST  be  tough  &  hard  non
breakable,  taken care every year, sanded and  varnished  to
avoid  splinters but they are hard to replace in  expedition
as to replace them as well.

Whether  they are of wood or Aluminium. They MUST  have  3/4
inches  thick and the screws that hold them MUST be easy  to
remove  which  is  not ALWAYS the case  with  the  Aluminium
#platbord#.

TYPE OF MATERIAL:

Tarp  canoe  is the most widely known, generally it  doesn't
have a keel but it is easy to install one. The fact that  it
does not have a keel makes it very handy to do slalom or  to
manoeuvre but it is unwise to go down rapids with  it  since
the tarp can easily be ripped up.

Its  advantage is that it is very quiet & is most often used
for fishing & hunting.

Light  enough around 65 to 70 lbs but after a long while  in
the  water  the  tarp gets water logged  and  increases  the
weight  of  the canoe so that after a day of heavy  rain  or
strong waves the canoe will weigh 95 to 100 lbs. Dry  it  in
a shade because the sun will make the  tarp  to crack.

It  does  not  have  floaters since  the  wood  insures  its
buoyancy and it will not sink even full of water. The  seats
are  usually  of  knitted #nerves#  as  snowshoes  they  are
comfortable and solid. Being high up they permit  good  foot
space.

Its sides are usually high so that the water does not get
in  easily yet it offers a good resistance to wind.  To keep
it in good shape, sand and cover the tarp with a  good
marine paint and varnish the wood work as often as needed.

FIBREGLASS CANOE:

They  are  a mixture of the Algonquin and Montagnais  canoe.
Usually they have a keel but some models the 14 and 15  feet
long  have  3  with  the advantages and disadvantages  known
above.  Even  with  a keel they are fairly  good  canoe  for
expeditions and rivers.

They weigh between 65 and 75 lbs for the 16 feet even up  to
90 lbs with a with of approximately 34 inches & height of 13
inches at the level of the mid bar as seen above. They  also
have 2 waterproof  boxes.

They usually have a little hole on top and this hole is  not
waterproof  so  you  MUST check from time  to  time  if  the
floater  does not have water in it and to empty it if need be.

One  can  also make a small hole at the bottom of  this  box
parallel to the canoe bottom and to let the water out  using
self  blocking  type of plug to fill the hole  after  usage.

There  are many models so here are some points to check  up;
MAKE  SURE that it is not too low, they MUST be at least  10
inches high to be comfortable and to allow enough space  for
the feet.

Check if the rivets are well in place and solid and if there
are  no danger to scratch your fingers if you get caught  in
them.  The bars MUST be well coupled to the # plat bord#  so
as  not to offer any play. The seats made of #leatheret#  or
styro-foam offer some problems.

The #leatheret# will easily crack and split under stress  or
cold,  the foam will get your ass wet quick since it absorbs
water. The  seats MUST be solidly fixed to the canoe. Some
models  have the seats affixed to the side of the canoe  and
they break easily therefore don't take  them or troubles along.

ALUMINUM CANOE:

Very popular in USA and Canada, load of space, solid and  no
upkeep.  Fairly  similar in weight to the  fibreglass  type.
However  it  has  the  disadvantage to  be  very  noisy  for
multitude  of  reasons.

Also it is a real  thermometer,  the canoe  is  very hot for
the legs if the sun beams on  it  or very cold  if  the
water  is  icy.  Its  seats  are  very uncomfortable & get
too hot or too cold via weather.

MODIFICATIONS TO DO TO THE CANOE:

Since  canoes  are  still  not  100%  one  has  to  do  some
modifications to better them here are some.

One  that will greatly help you in portage is to advance the
rear  bar so that you can hold it at arms length when  doing
portage  offering also an excellent holding to maintain  the
balance  of  the canoe.photo  to explain. Add a  wooden  bar
handle of 3/4 to 1 inch diameter at the tips of the canoe to
help when 2 are carrying it on short portage.

#CALE GENOUX#:

To  ease  the  pain of the knees, place a piece of  Neoprene
#hard  foam#  of 3/4 to 1 inch thick and wide enough  to  be
comfortable and that can be used by many people of different
weight. Once your piece cut, glue it strongly to the  bottom
of the canoe using the glue: Pliobond of Goodyear. Or use  a
small rubber mat to help.

#CALLE CUISSE#:

This  is used to maintain the legs in position and do  avoid
slipping  forward in rapids or lake with strong waves.  Make
one  using a nylon or leather etc. belt of 2 inches wide and
that MUST be moveable around.

To  install  it  place yourself on your knees  and  fix  the
centre  of the belt at the bottom of the canoe at the knee's
height and fix the ends at 8 inches ahead of the bench using
a  good  galvanised wire. Do not put it too high up  on  the
thighs  because you MUST be able to get out quickly  of  the
canoe in case of capsizing

DIFFERENT TIE UPS:

Ties  of  all kinds for Kodak, maps, oars, etc.  MUST  untie
quickly. Use 2 ropes of 15 feet one at the bow the other  at
stern MUST be tied to the holding transportation bar to  fix
the canoe while at rest also to haul it, to cross rapids  or
to help someone in distress. A rope of 30 to 50 feet with  a
float at one end using an empty Javel plastic can half  full
can become very useful to help someone in distress.

RAIN PROTECTION:

You  can  also place a piece of tarp of 5 X 7  feet  on  the
luggage in case of rain or to put branches under the luggage
to  avoid them getting wet, or use the trick of stove  grill
at the bottom of the canoe which has many cooking uses.

ADVISES:
1)   Check if your gears are in good order before taking off.
 2)  Don't stand up in a canoe.

3)   Don't sit down on the end points.

4)   Don't sit down in canoe when it is on the ground.
5)   Don't overload your canoe.

6)   Don't let your canoe on the beach edge where the wind &
     the waves can damage it by hitting it against rock.

7)   Lift your canoe don't drag it on the ground.

8)    While putting down your canoe MAKE SURE the ground  is
     soft & that it won't lean on a rock or something sharp.

9)   Getting  in  or out of canoe MUST be done slowly, No rush.

10)  Usual position in canoe is on your knees, less  chance
to capsize, less tiring and more strength to oar along.

OARS AND MATERIAL:

Those  made in one piece are made of maple, cedar or  birch.
The  most solid is the maple one but also the heaviest.  The
laminated  oars  are made of spruce or hard wood,  birch  or
#carier#.

There  exist  a  way to make a special oar which  is  nearly
indestructible but also very heavy, which consist  once  the
oar  is  done to replace the water by polyester. Yet it  can
not be found on the market.

OAR CHOICE:

Standing up the oar MUST come the mouth height as a  general
rule of thumb but some prefer a longer oar or shorter, trial
is best. Some oarsmen say that one should have the front man
oar(bow) with an oar at mouth height and the stern man  at
the forehead height.

The choice of the oar also depends of the size of  the  one
who uses it of its length arm and its strength. As  to  the
length  of  the paddling this comes with practice  searching
for the right rhythm which will give a maximum output for  a
normal effort.

When  you  buy an oar, examine it carefully since there  are
many points which you MUST check. A heavy oar will result in
tiring  uselessly  the  arms.  Your  total  energy  MUST  be
concentrated on the paddle strokes and not lost  on  holding
the oar.

Don't  forget  that one gives about 450 paddle  strokes  per
mile  giving  about  15 min. per mile, one  stroke  every  2
seconds so don't waste energy.  However a paddle which would
be  too  light  will  also be too fragile  thus  will  break
easily. So chose a medium weight according to your strength.

The  age lines MUST be in the sense of the forces made while
paddling  and not in the opposite sense, so; MAKE SURE  they
are parallel to the force and not perpendicular.

THE FORM OF THE HANDLE:

Choose a handle that fits PERFECTLY to your hands. There  is
no  general rule, try different ones to see which  one  fits
best.  Many  however  will prefer a T handle  to  do  rapids
because it offers a very good grip and  T modified for  long
excursions.

The  pear  shape  handle  is rarely  used  by  professionals
because  it is too small and offers little grip and the  oar
has  a  tendency to roll in the hand while manoeuvring.  The
thickness of the handle, is also something one has to try to
find  his best. Personally I prefer a handle of 1 1/4"  inch
to the usual 1 inch.

It is only a question of impression but one get to feel what
is  just  right  for  him.  The handle  MUST  be  round  and
straight, avoid as much as possible the rectangular  handle.
As for the oar  it MUST be solid to permit a better traction
and choose the width is function of its usage.

The  Indians use to choose an oar of 4 to 5 inches  using  a
very  fast rhythm on very long travels, which would be  very
tiring  with an oar that is 8 to 10 inches wide.

Most  oars wider  than  6 inches #pale are lamelelle#. They
are  strong enough but if you do much rapids you MUST cover
over the tip of  it  with some polyester & also to reinforce
the #pale# with 2 strips of fibreglass 2 inches wide.

To  do  this  MAKE SURE to well sand down the #pale#  before
putting it, otherwise the polyester will not take hold. When
you  buy  a  #pale  lameller# MAKE  SURE  that  the  tip  is
reinforced  with  a lattice of 1 inch placed  in  the  width
sense of the #pale# to insure a better strength.

Avoid  oars  that are 10 to 12 inches of #pale#  since  they
force  you  to  oar  far away from the canoe  and  are  very
tiring.

UPKEEP:

In the spring sand the oar and varnish it with Varathane. In
winter  keep them in a damp place not dry, since the dryness
will make the #lamellage# to come off.

WAYS TO HOLD AN OAR:

The  palm  of one hand on the handle, the thumb  facing  the
interior and the fingers toward the exterior. The other hand
is  placed  at the height of the #collet neck# or  2  inches
higher.

When you lay down an oar put the handle down and the #pale#
upward so as not to break the cutting edge. Don't let the
oar in the water or in the sun since the edge will blunt and
the  #pale# will split ends. Don't let it drag  on  the
floor since one can walk over it.

HOW TO START CANOEING:

Don't try to learn alone or with less experience canoe users
for  you  will not progress or hardly and will pick  up  bad
habits which will become hard to let go.

So  use  a  good  teacher and there are usually  many  canoe
schools around to benefit from. It is well worth it to  take
some lessons from an expert.

RAPIDS:

If  you ever have to do rapids then you MUST take some basic
technique  to be able to easily direct a canoe in a  current
and  to  be able to stop quickly which is easy. As a measure
of  security  you should have an experienced  #canoeist#  in
order to do so.

HOW TO JUMP RAPIDS IN A SAFE WAY:

One  MUST NEVER get in a rapid without knowing what kind  it
is nor where it is going to lead him.

First  everyone MUST stop before upstream and get  on  shore
then  go and examine the rapid to determine its class  &  if
one can go down through it.

One  tries to find a possible path in checking the pass  and
the  "V",  the  strength of the current, the height  of  the
waves  by looking the waves horizontally and also the places
of the rocks and movement of the waters.

Once this study made one trace the path to take. Since there
are many possible paths, one choose the best one available.

GROUP SAFETY:

Then you decide if the group can jump the rapid after having
taken in consideration of the difficulties of the rapid,  of
its  length,  the age and experience of the teams,  if  they
have life jacket, and the nearness of civilization, how much
time  you  have left since sometimes portage is  easier  and
safer.

If  there  are or not any luggage to carry or not since  you
can  also  carry the luggage and have the canoe go down  the
rapids using a rope to direct it at both ends, also take  in
view  the type of canoe and finally the state of fatigue  of
the group.

After  the  exam, If the group can go down  the  rapid,  the
chief  of  file  will go first as look out of reconnaissance
and  will stop downstream or in a calm zone and if the rapid
is  long he will jump it by sections by each team. From  his
stopping point he will make the signs to the #2 canoe.

ROLE OF TEAMS:

In  rapid  it  is  the front oar man who directs  and  gives
orders  since he sees best the direction to follow  and  its
the  back stern oar men who takes care to keep the canoe  in
the   sense  of  the  current  and  will  also  follow   the
instructions  of the front man but they also MUST  help  one
another in those tasks.

Misunderstanding between #teamsters# is one of the cause  of
accident in canoe, so instead of getting bull headed do your
work  consciously, carefully and put trust and faith in your
partner  who  also  does  his  best  to  direct  the   canoe
hopefully.

As  other causes of accidents we find clowning in canoe  and
overloading  the canoe, the usage of damaged material,  also
to  have try to reach the other shore by swimming instead of
staying  safely  clung  to the canoe,  also  to  have  taken
unnecessary risks.

Not  to  have taken in consideration the type and  class  of
rapids,  the  bad  knowledge of the technique  of  canoeing,
carelessness,  violent  winds  on  lakes,  loss  of  balance
#hydrocution# exhaustion isolation so in keeping a  constant
carefulness it is relatively easy to avoid the major part of
those accidents.

REMEMBER  that in PORTAGE the one that carries  the  luggage
goes first so that he can best check the terrain ahead.

INTERNATIONAL CLASSIFICATION OF RAPIDS:
1)    Easy     2)   A little experience.
3)   More Dangerous for starters.

SIGNALS:

When  going  down  rapids some signals are needed  here  are
some:  Standing to be seen the oarsman points his oar  at  :
Noon  = Yes; From left to right = No / 10 PM = Left; 
From  2 am = Right.

Oar  going up and down held horizontally = Slow  / Oar going
waist  high  horizontally = Portage. Oar going  down  as  if
paddling = #Cordelle# (use of ropes).

MATERIAL TO HAVE AT HAND (#CORDELLE#):

2  ropes  of 15 feet attached at the front and back  of  the
canoe. A rope of 30 feet by team and one of 50 feet for  the
head chief and the #serre file# with a float attached to one
end.  Use  a Javel plastic container 1/2 full of water  with
the lid on of course.

Choose   a   yellow  plastic  rope  which  is  better   seen
polypropylene of 1/4 inch of the ropes of 30 feet and of 5/8
for the 50 feet. A good scoop made from a Javel bottle which
you have remove the bottom and kept the lid and handle.

One will attach the scoop with a rope of 6 feet  at the rear
holding  hand  or  seat. If you do little rapids  nor  grand
lakes a simple cup will do.

To  MAKE SURE you have 3 oars per canoe MAKING SURE that the
extra oar can be used quickly. MAKE SURE that the luggage is
well tied down so as not to loose them if you capsize.

Yet they MUST be able to untie them quickly and easily. Wear
boots so as not to hurt your feet when unloading.

Also  a  water suit if the canoeing is done under 50F. in
spring  to  avoid  hypothermia, fainting or  hearth  seizure
caused by very cold water.

Also  MUST have a life jacket capable to support your weight
and  to keep your head OFF the water EVEN when fainted. This
is  a  MUST.  Also  bring  along a repair  kit  (fibreglass,
resins, scissors, #catalysor#, brush).

SOME ADVISES:

In  canoe  the  best security is prudence,  carefulness,  so
please  no clowning Bozo, and do not take unnecessary risks,
put  on  your  life jacket before the rapids  and  specially
respect the code of classification of the rapids.

Go  ahead  to  see  what  to expect,  scout  the  area  well
especially if you don't see the end or that it in  a  curve.
In  rapids be conscious of your possibilities and KNOW  your
limits.

REMEMBER that a portage has NEVER killed anyone but  jumping
rapids  has  killed  many more experienced  natives  etc.  A
minute of prudence is worth months of reparation & damages.

CAPSIZE?:

Place  yourself at the rear end of the canoe with your  foot
ahead and try to stop as much as possible and stay with  the
canoe  except if it puts your life in danger, try to stay calm.

SOME COUNSELS = PORTAGE:

To  find  a  portage look at the most logic  place,  looking
where the ground is the easiest of access. Portage  being  old
manners there are certainly  still  some indications, traces and
signs left, cut trees, shore cleaned up, marks on trees, pile of
rocks well in sight.

Usually  signs  easy to find. However it is harder  to  find
them in civilized area since all traces have disappeared.

If  you have no indication via the portage on the map,look
at  the most likely spot and 9 times out of 10 you will find
it near the foot of the rapid.

If  you don't find it then go on the other side for if there
was  a portage at the preceding place there MUST be one  for
this one too.

Sometimes because of a curve the portage starts well  before
the rapid, the map should help you along. I  have  ALWAYS
found the portage at the best place possible since  the
Indians and prospectors often use portage  to  go around
and  having a lot of luggage are not  interested  in
carrying them uselessly around.

Attention  especially  for the long portage  you  will  have
interest  in  searching and finding the best  portage  route
before reaching shore and landing rather than to try to save
time by portaging at all cost where you will first land.

If  you have many portages try to have everything in bags so
as not to loose infinite time in preparing each one of them.

CLOTHING:

So as to travel as light as much as possible, BRING ONLY THE
STRICT MINIMUM.

And  for  a  week end the only change needed is  a  pair  of
running shoes & a sweater beside your rain gears, and a pair
of  dry sock and thermal underwear long john which can be of
many uses if you get cold or wet.

At  night  get your feet to dry by the fire and  to  install
your shoes in a warm place for the night.

Wear  clothing that dries easily like wool and  do  not  get
dirty. Jeans are not the best as wool is yet they die hard.

In  canoe the running shoes are top best around. You can dry
them out easily with hot sand from the beach, heated by  the
camp  fire  and you still can swim with them  and  they  dry
easily.

Avoid  heavy  boots since you can not get them  wet  without
problems & they are a handicap in canoe.

Bring a cap or wide rim hat to beat insulation since sun  on
the  water  is really strong, sunglasses should  be  brought
along and tied by a string.

BEFORE EXPEDITION:

Before  undertaking an expedition which requires  a  lot  of
physical effort you MUST take a training, if you have a long
portage  to do then do it in the morning when you are  fresh
and  rested and that the weather is not too hot, don't  wait
till the afternoon.

DOUBLE  YOUR PRUDENCE when wet weather (slippery) rocks  and
trees. Don't walk over something you can overstep.

Look  where  you step keep the back straight to  avoid  back
ache, take and keep a walk rhythm & do not over-stress  your
limits. We are all Limited.

SECURITY:

RESCUE / RECUPERATION TECHNIQUE:

Capsizing  is  an  incident which happens rarely,  the  rare
exception  is  in  the crossing of the Great  Lakes  or  the
choice   of  a  bad  pass  in  a  rapid  &  no  respect   of
classification,   clowning  and  imprudence   as   usual   &
overloading are most common.

Canoeing  is not a dangerous sport when done with  prudence.
One  just has to put the chances on his side with a  minimum
in  swimming  to  be  able to swim  80  feet  and  to  avoid
clowning.

If  one day you capsize, stay close to the canoe, don't  try
to  reach the shore by swimming, stay calm, stay with  canoe
rear and don't leave it, unless deadly danger.

Staying with the canoe is easier to float, better seen  than
one  swimmer and has the drying material which you will need
to survive later. Stick to it.

PREPARATION FOR GOING OUT:

The  don't  of  an outing largely depends to  the  attention
brought to the preparation.

PRINCIPLE NOT TO FORGET: IMPORTANT:

When  choosing the trip, take in consideration of  the  time
allotted,  experience and strength and taste  of  the  team,
costs, ways of access, the overall pleasing to the group.

In  order  to  do  this they all MUST  pass  the  rivers  in
selections,  lakes, accessible roads, either for  an  outing
for a week end or more.

For  an  outing of a week end, limit to 15 to 20 miles  trip
according  to the degree of difficulties  points of  access,
rapids, portages according to the group and class.

If  you are going to do a 100 miles trip which would take  a
week,  keep one day as tampon, buffer between each  week  of
travelling to make up for bad weather of other hazards.

For  a  team  a  trip  of  15 miles  per  day  is  good  and
reasonable.  Above that it becomes sportive and requires  an
experienced team well trained to maintain rhythm.

For  one week, 100 miles is the maximum if you want to  give
yourself sometimes to swim, fish a little, klik klik a bit.

In choosing a group REMEMBER that the bigger is the slowest.
So avoid the groups of more than 10 canoes.

It  is  also difficult to find place for sufficient  camping
for  them  all, too much time lost in portage bad vibrations
sets in, security is difficult in rapids.

The  ideal is 5 to 6 canoes and a team going alone is taking
unnecessary risks unless absolute necessity. Avoid to  bring
strangers or starters for more than a week end trip.

Before  going out, many meetings are needed to take time  to
well  explain the project, clearly explaining the conditions
of the outing.

Such  as  cost,  security, transport, known difficulties  or
possible  obstacles,  length  of  trip  sections,  type   of
expeditions etc. So that there will not be misunderstanding,
deceptions, bad feelings.

MAKE  SURE  that you tell the team members to put themselves
in  good physical training shape so as to be able to  follow
the  group avoiding to be too slow and to find the trip  too
hard.

You  will then discuss of the material preparation,  listing
the  gears,  individuals and by teams or groups,  trying  to
foresee the unknown, eventual necessities or emergencies  to
cover,  water gear, hot clothes; "wool is best", repair  kit
for tent, canoe etc. And also the good state of the material
and equipment taken.

INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL FACTS TO STUDY:

Many  of  these  problems  will and  can  be  solved  during
meetings  ahead. One MUST explain clearly the security  code
used on earth and water, conditions of the operations.

Spirit  of  the  team in taking preventive measures  ex;  no
radio  after 11 PM, rest time between 11 and 7AM,  no  booze
for  the  kids and lightly for adults so swearing  and  good
proper behaviour will do nicely on all.

Experience  has proven that oversleeping and canoeing  don't
mix together so rise and shine, up and at them boys. Fix the
return  date with precision and warn somebody of your future
return date.

Fix  all  details of the trip, difficulties, length of  trip
sections, numbers hours of canoeing per day, interest, goal,
organize carefully the preparation of the food, equipment in
good order, and right for the type of trip.

Balance well the team according to the strength of the  men,
their experience, placing a learner with an experienced man.

Avoid  the  formation of too well strong team and place  the
teams  according to their conception of canoe camping  so  a
family  with kids will have no fun with a team of  youngster
who want some ventures and vice versa.

Also  avoid  all  anarchy problems since all expeditions  of
more  than  4  people MUST have a leader who will  have  the
final decision.

So  explain  well  ahead  what they MUST  expect,  also  the
weather,  flies,  bad  weather,  special  road  or   terrain
conditions are part of the canoe trip.

TASK SHARING:

Each  one  MUST have a specific function and is particularly
active in the overall help. No free loafers, no Bwana!
Ex. You have the chief of staff, the chief of rank and file,
the   #serre   file#,  the  cartographer,  the  signal   and
communication   specialist,  the  medic-man,   the   writer,
responsible of the fire, the cook and the rotation.

REMEMBER  that the Law in Canada stipulates that  no  forest
CIE.  No  hunting or fishing camps owns the  land  but  only
accorded fishing and hunting licence and to cut wood, so you
are  free  to  walk  on those lands to cross  them  anywhere
anytime no matter what they say otherwise and call the  FQCK
if there are problems for that.

MEALS:

Don't  bring  any stoves since you will ALWAYS  find  enough
wild forest to light your fire. Don't ever wash the exterior
of  the  canteen rap them in a plastic bag instead to  avoid
getting all else dirty or have a special bag for them.

If   you  have  much  portage  to  do  bring  dry  food   or
concentrated  stuff such as pemmican and corn slop  seen  in
food file like Sherpa tea or make your own.

Rice,  dry  sporting  food type is real  handy  but  costly.
Granola mixtures with peanuts since peanuts are real  energy
booster second best after liver not counting Spirolina.

Bring  also  semoule, cheese, pancake, oat,  lard,  beans  &
molasses, margarine in plastic container or butter since  it
keeps  well for a week or more in forest but away  from  the
sun. Etc.

WHAT YOU NEED TO REMEMBER TO DO IN CANOE CAMPING:

How  to  read a map, how to orient oneself  cook and  travel
light.  That  it is difficult to stop in a rapid.  That  the
wind  usually  drops down at the end of  the  afternoon  and
starts back in the morning.

That  one  can  sleep comfy under a canoe  especially  after
having  removed the 2 central bars & your canoe can  shelter
you  from  wind especially for your camp fire or as  a  wind
breaker for your tent.

REMEMBER  that  a sunburn can be done in 1/2  hour  after  a
moderate  exposition to the sun so if you  are  not  already
spice tanned be extra careful, cover up if the sun is really
hot or at the least sensation of burning.

INSULATION   IS   OFTEN  DEADLY.  The  further   away   from
civilization; the more prudent one has to be.

WHAT YOU HAVE TO AVOID:

To  start learning alone on how to do canoeing or with  only
beginners  as yourself. To bring to many gears, to calculate
too long periods of canoeing.

To  go  down rapids that are stronger than the one you  have
experienced  or  to go down rapids without first  going  and
scouting them ahead. To bring valuable gears such as  camera
etc. Use rather the old cheap ones or get good insurance.

To  go more than a week end with a companion which you  know
only  a  little.  To  go to a strange land  unknown  to  you
without  map  &  compass & to forget to  let  a  responsible
person  check  your  return  timetable  should  an  accident
happen.

WHAT YOU HAVE TO BRING ALONG:

Many boxes waterproof for many uses, matches, bug repellent,
rain  gear,  scoop,  repair kits, map, compasses,  (2  min),
knife, small axe or machete, dry bags plastic garbage  type,
spare oar.

Pack sacks, strong rope to tie the canoe and a finer one for
the  luggage, a tarp nylon etc. to shelter the material  and
wood,  plastic cushion for the knees etc. see personnel  kit
file for the other items.

Canoeing looks easy but it is very complex in doing  and  it
needs practice on the field with the help of experts thus it
needs  a  great amount of experience since difficulties  met
are very numerous.

There  are  books especially made on canoeing and  they  are
hardly able to cover the subject within satisfaction.

And  the reading will be only profitable if you have already
taken some lessons so as to understand them completely.

Even  if  I write over 100 page that one MUST stand  in  the
middle of the canoe in rapids only the experience will teach
you  how true this is after understanding the why's by going
down some small rapids.

So  the  best way to discourage yourself is to try to  learn
alone or with beginners.

CANOEING:

Before shooting off, balance well your canoe freight,  place
the heavy stuff at the bottom of the canoe in the centre of it.

Place  yourself at one end and your knee well in the  centre
of it, the body straight up and so does your partner.

The luggage well secured in the centre over some branches to
avoid getting wet and REMEMBER that the water will gather at
the  back which is the duty of the rear anchor man to  scoop
it  out. So cover well all your gears against rain or  waves
splashing.

ALWAYS  TAKE  THE  WIND HEAD ON; and if the  canoe  is  well
balanced   you   can  travel  thousands  of  miles   without
incidents. Avoid sharp movements.

One  MUST NEVER stand up in a canoe, the winds and the waves
will make you make the wrong move and capsize or fall in the
water, and if it does stick to the canoe and swim with it to
the nearest shore.

Don't  let  the  canoe on hard surface since  the  wind  can
uplift  it  and make it bounce on hard rock &  break  it  or
damage it seriously.

The  best  method is to plant 2 big forks and  to  put  your
canoe on it upside down wind and sun sheltered.

CANOEING ADD ON:

The front men paddle on one side the other on the other side
and  in the great waves give a paddle at each coming of  the
waves.

In  the  rapids  the #appel# (call) consist in  dipping  the
paddle far enough of the canoe the oar being parallel to the
canoe  and  to  pull  toward you so as  to  move  the  canoe
laterally.

#L'ecart#  is done the opposite way, place your paddle  near
the  canoe  using the #plat bord# as a lever of a  kind  and
send  the paddle toward the exterior pushing thus the  canoe
in the opposite direction.

But these 2 movements are difficult to explain in a book and
only the practice will with experts become efficient.

REMEMBER  that  many  a rapid is not  on  your  map  due  to
flooding.  So  be careful and NEVER get in  a  rapid  before
stopping a shore and going to see what is happening  farther
down.

BASIC  TECHNIQUE  TO  GET IN THE WATER,  #EMBARQUEMENT,  DRY
TIME.#:

2 CANOEIST:

From the shore they take hold of the #platbord # each facing
one  another  on each side and slide the canoe on  its  keel
while protecting it from rocks.

The rear oar man will get in first while the other holds the
canoe between its 2 legs perpendicularly to the shore, at 90
degree angle.

He  will then come forward in the water, grabbing the  #plat
bords#  while  pushing  as much as possible  the  centre  of
gravity, then will kneel down in the canoe gently.

FROM A WHARF:

The  canoe  parallel to the wharf, the 2  oarsmen  grab  the
canoe by the same #plat bord#.

Lifting up the height of the thighs and throw it off in  the
water; ALWAYS parallel to the wharf. The front oarsman  gets
in first in this case.

SOLO; WHARF OR BEACH:

For  a  loner, one places the canoe perpendicularly  to  the
wharf and one slides it on its keel. One should get in place
by  holding on the 2 #plat bord# and to kneel in the  centre
of the canoe with wide spread legs.

In  this position the body becomes the centre# pivot# and at
the same time the #ecarts and appels # will be very easy.

There is also another method, the oarsmen places himself  in
his  usual seat after having put down one or many  rocks  to
stabilize the canoe as ballast.

DRY DOCKING:

Get  the  canoe out using the same methods and as  for  dead
time  have some wooden support in triangle which will placed
the  canoe as low as possible to the ground so that the wind
will not have a game with it and project it in the air as  a
kite.

IN RIVERS TO KNOW HOW TO EMBARK OR DISEMBARK:

In  general  one place the canoe parallel to the shore,  the
bow facing downstream and this goes for all types of canoes.

Place the oar across the canoe so that there are 2 points to
be leaning on; the deck or #platbord# and the shore:

1)   The handle leans on the deck or #platbord# of the canoe
at  the tip of the #hiloire# if it is a decked canoe like  a
kayak.

2)   The shore; the end of the oar is put flat on the shore.
To maintain this holding position one stands on the shore as
near as possible of the canoe facing downstream.

One  hand takes hold of the handle near the #olive# and  the
forward part of the # hiloire#. The other hand will grab the
handle very near the #pale# while leaning against it.

In  those conditions the canoe is well held in place and can
not  go  back nor forth nor get away from the shore nor  tip
up, it is the time to embark son. Go for it Rambo.

So  REMEMBER  as soon as the first foot is in the  canoe  to
gently transport the weight of your body straight up  on  an
even keel as a supple mast.

Getting  in  or  out MUST be done slowly, carefully  without
rushes.

OARING: (Not Whoring)

For  the  left  hand oarsman, take a hold on the  oar  at  2
inches, 5cm. over the #collet neck # with the left hand  and
with the right hand he covers the olive with its 4 fingers &
the thumb under it. This  position of the superior hand does not
change  at  any time, & the right hand man does the opposite.

#COUP DAVIRON# Attack:

Hold  the handle of the oar #obliquely# forward in a  #plan#
or  view  tending to vertical the #pale# perpendicularly  to
the  axial  of the boat with the lower arm stretch  out  and
superior  arm in half flexion with your #bust#  slightly  on
the opposite side so as to obtain an important push from the
shoulder  and  the  superior arm in  the  forward  phase  of
propulsion.

PROPULSIVE PHASE OR PAST:

The passage in the water from front to back is obtained by a
pushing  from  the  shoulder and a strong tensing  from  the
superior arm.

There  is  a  traction of the inferior  hand  produce  by  a
rotation of the # bust# followed by an arm flexion.

At  the  end of the pass the superior arm is stretched  out,
the  efficiency of the propulsion stops at the level of  the
seat or holding bar.

At  the end of the pass the oar is #degager# on the side  by
the  thin  edge  of  the  blade #pale#  through  the  simple
rotation of the shoulders. During all the time of its return
the #pale# stays in horizontally at the height of the top of
the keel.

Since  the return is a time to recuperate it is done  slowly
and done when the oar is in #obliquely# forward and a simple
rotation of the handle will replace it in attack position.

STOPPING BACK UP:

Attack; put the handle of the oar obliquely backward  #pale#
perpendicularly to the canoe axial.

This  position is made by a rotation of the shoulders toward
the  attack,  lower arm 1/2 flexed in pushing  position  and
upper arm stretched forward from your body, the nails of the
superior hand directed toward the back stern of the canoe.

PHASE 2: #RETROPROPULSION#:

The  pass  in the water is done from front to back near  the
canoe  in  a view approaching the vertical. Push  using  the
inferior arm. #Point# fix using the upper hand.

The  pass  is pursued far enough toward the front so  as  to
permit  #le degagement# which is done by a rotation  of  the
oar, the nails of the superior hand toward heaven.

PHASE 3)  DISENGAGEMENT  & RETURN TO ATTACK:

The return is done out of the water and the #pale# at flat.

ACTIVE MANOEUVRES:

CALL IN DIRECT TRACTION:

The  call; this movement displaces the canoe or one  of  its
end  on  the  side of the oar, it consists in drawing  water
toward the canoe.

ATTACK:    Rotation of the #bust# on the side where you  are
boarded arms extended at maximum to attack the water as  far
as  possible from the keel, the #pale# being parallel to the
canoe axial.

ACTIVE PHASE:

Traction of the inferior arm perpendicularly to the axial of
the  canoe.  The  #pale# is brought near of #franc  bord  in
front of the bust# of the oarsman.

RETURN TO ATTACK:

This return is done on the slide of the oar. The #pale#  can
be placed on the slicing part either open or close (rotation
of  the olive either by the right or the left). The inferior
hand  pushes  backward  toward the  shoe  and  replaces  the
attacking position.

NOTES:

For the back oarsman the return is done by the opening angle
of  the #pale axial# of the canoe. For the front oarman  the
rerun  is  done by the closing of the angle #pale axial#  of
the  canoe. The more vertical the oar the more efficient  is
the manoeuvre.

#APPEL EN GODILLLE#:

ATTACK:    :#bust#  slightly  turned  on  the  side  of  the
manoeuvre.  The  handle of the oar at  the  body  level  and
vertically.  The  #pale# is parallel to  the  axial  of  the
canoe.

ACTIVE PHASE:

Opening  of  the  angle displacing of  the  #pale#  forward.
Closing  of the angle and displacement of the #pale#  toward
the back. Fix point from the superior hand.

NOTE:

The oar operates a movement of swinging motion very near the
keel in a vertical #plan# and parallel to the canoe axial.

ACTIVE DEVIATION OR SEPARATION:

This  manoeuvre displaces the canoe or one of its end toward
the  opposite  side of the oar. Pushing water off  from  the
canoe.

STARTING POSITION:

Chest  slightly tuned toward the side of the manoeuvre.  The
handle of the oar is vertical and internally #oblique  (pale
slightly under the keel.) pale# parallel to the canoe axial.
Handle  leaning  against the keel at  the  knee  level.  Arm
superior  stretched perpendicularly to the canoe axial.  The
inferior hand insures the contact of the handle against  the
canoe.

ACTIVE PHASE:

Traction  from the superior arm without having the  superior
hand   over  passing  the  canoe  axial.  The  oar  is  then
externally #oblique# but the handle stays in direct  contact
with the keel.

RETURN TO ATTACK: 

The  oar  MUST return to the initial first position  by  the
#tranche#. Closing the angle of 90 degrees and stretching of
the superior arm toward the shore.

NOTE:     NEVER remove the handle from the canoe, It is  its
leaning point.

#REDRESSMENT#:

At  the  end of his propulsive motion the rear oarsman  will
execute 1/4 turn on its oar while flexing his superior wrist
toward  the  exterior as an aiming point the oar  should  be
painted on one side.

This same side will be the propulsion side and this one will
be   facing  at  the  exterior  at  the  moment   when   the
compensation movement will be done by a light push from  the
inferior arm toward the exterior.

REMEMBER  that the #pale# MUST stay in the water  completely
at the rear.

#INCIDENCE MANOEUVRE#: OPENING DEGREE OF THE OAR:

This  manoeuvres are done by variation of the opening degree
of  this angle formed by the #pale# & the longitudinal axial
of the canoe.

This  manoeuvre has only an effect if the canoe has  already
gathered some initial speed or it is in a current. It is the
olive  hand (superior) that controls the #incidence# 3 types
of #incidence#.

A)   Zero angle: which provokes no direction change and
the # pale# is in parallel position to the canoe axial.

B)    Open angle: it brings moving and   displacement in the
direction of the oar thus a call or thrust. The  tip  of the
angleis directed or found toward the rear.

C)   Closed angle: the tip of the angle is directed toward
the  front, there is a displacement in the opposite sense
of the oar thus an #ecart or shove off.#

EXECUTION OF THE #INCIDENCE MANOEUVRES#.

A) CALL BY #INCIDENCE# :

According  to  the  effect searched for, the  #pale  can  be
immersed#   in  a  good  number  of  positions  (vertically,
#backward  oblique,  interior oblique &  exterior  oblique#)
depending of the angles and in different places to be used.

Here  is  an #incidence# call at the height of the  oarsman.
Body  straight  up fitting or wedding the  canoe,  you  then
plant  or fix the oar vertically at the height of the  canoe
bar with an open angle of 45 degrees.

#ECART BY INCIDENCE#:

Oar vertically using a leaning point against the #francbord#
at the knee level with no angle.

Execution: Close lightly the angle by controlling  with  the
superior hand.

NOTE:

Avoid  a too big closing of the angle. Do not place the  oar
in external #oblique# but rather in internal #oblique#.

While training in initiation a closing badly controlled  can
capsize  the canoe and can be avoided by quickly letting  go
of the oar olive.

THE HOLDINGS:

1)   IN PUSHING MOTION:

The  position of the oar is perpendicular to the canoe axial
and  parallel  to  the water surface. The  position  of  the
wrists; above the handle and the olive.

The #bust# turned toward the side of the oar. One operates a
dynamic push toward the bottom meaning the water surface.

2)   IN SUSPENSION:

This position looks like the attacking position but the  oar
is much more in exterior oblique.

One suspends itself so to say to the olive and to the handle
of  the  oar.  The #pale# being leaning under the  water  as
leverage.

The  leaning  in suspension can be done when  the  canoe  is
immobile  by  a movement #de godille# in surface.  When  the
canoe advances one uses angles effects.

#ESQUIMAUTAGE#:

Now  currently practised is done as so; taking a lean  point
on the water with the oar, the oarsmen can redress the canoe
which has capsized this especially applies to kayaks and the
methods are numerous.

In  canoe  the lateral manner seems to be the most efficient
ways to do so. But one MUST be solidly anchored in the canoe
and make body with the keel even when the canoe has the keel
up in the air.

In  order to tighten yourself solidly one can use a rope  or
belt  fixed  to the keel and under the bar, this  belt  will
pass  in  front of the thigh at mid height between the  knee
and  the  #bassin or pelvic bone# use either a  bar  covered
with  rubber  or  use  2  blocks  of  Klegecel  (very  light
material).

They are affixed to each knee on the #lateral (side)# of the
keel.  A  #cale pied# permits the extension of the  foot  to
block itself against the #cale genoux system.#

Once  the canoe has capsized project the oar on the surface,
having the #pale a plat# perpendicularly to the canoe axial.
This  starting position is very important. If the #pale#  is
not flat, it will go down without any leaning point

If  it is not at the surface to start with then its position
will  become  #oblique# thus a bad move at the  end  of  the
movement  and  will not permit to bring the  canoe  back  to
normal.

This  technique should be trained first in a  swimming  pool
with a water goggles so as to well see the starting position
and the execution of the gesture or act.

If  the  canoe  is  perpendicular  to  the  current,  the  #
esquimautage#  is done downstream being much easier  and  in
that case the up lifting of the body is done forward.

The  strength  of the current helps the canoe  rotation  and
also the leaning of the oar is more forceful.

In  a  2  place  canoe,  one of the  team  member  MUST  #se
deborder#.  Since  the 2 oars MUST be in the  same  side  to
operate the #redressment.

This  #debordement# is done under water very quickly. It  is
good to agree ahead that this change will ALWAYS be done  by
the front oarsman since he has a greater freedom of movement
than his partner.

Being  first ready the rear man will wait for the signal  to
start the movement.

With  the  help of this small #decalage# or off timing,  the
starting  phase will be insured by the front man  while  the
final phase will be completed by the rear man.

In  order to apply this technique in rough waters, one  MUST
first  having done it successfully many a time in a swimming
pool.

This  is  no  amateur trick so that the capsizing  does  not
necessarily  have to end by a swimming to the  shore  &  the
passage  under  water of an #esquimautage# can  be  seen  as
winter training.

STORM AND CANOES:

If you get caught in a storm on a lake or river and that the
wind  blows  prevent  you  from moving,  just  let  yourself
carried by the current while putting the canoe in line  with
the wind, face it and try to direct the canoe without oaring
till the nearest shore.

DON'T TRY TO FIGHT AGAINST THE WAVES, AND IF THE STORM  GETS
WORSE LAY DOWN IN THE CANOE AND DON'T WORRY.

Since  the  waves  will carry you and soon your  canoe  will
reach  the  shore.  Don't  get nervous  have  faith  in  the
Providence and wait for help.

If  you  are many in the canoe, make it so that each one  is
well  place in the bottom of the canoe & warn them  to  stay
calm & not to move, immobile & specially that the companions
MUST  NOT lean on the sides of the canoe for the canoe would
capsize being off balance.

Try  to calm them, that they don't get discourage and  start
panicking,  make them realize that there are no  dangers  as
long  as  they  stay quiet in their place and  well  at  the
bottom  of the canoe and that the canoe will float  if  they
keep their position and that soon a shore will be on sight.

Otherwise the nervousness the discouragement and panic  will
set  in especially those who don't know how to swim and they
will have the tendency to rise up or to lean.

So  make them stop this at once and convince them that their
salvation and rescue and life depend of their good  conducts
by  following your instructions till the storms  ends.  Give
them faith this is very important for all your security.

BOAT RAPIDS FRENCH TECHNIQUE:

The  basic  technique  applied in   here  give  3  classical
manoeuvres: #Le bac front and back / Reprise of the current#
/ Stopping against current.

#BAC#:

To  do  the  #bac#  is to cross a current  letting  yourself
adrift  as little as possible. For the front #bac# you  face
the current.

EXECUTION:      As much as possible take some speed.  Orient
the canoe toward the current following an angle as small  as
the  current is strong. The stronger the current the smaller
the angle.

The conduct of the #bac# is done by #manoeuvre d'incidence.#
It  is  at times indispensable to place yourself in  leaning
position toward downstream, it may be more advisable to  oar
at other times.

The principle stays the same for the backward #bac# but more
delicate in application.

DEFINITION:    To grab the current is to engage in a vein of
the  river  current when the canoe is at stop #en  marge  du
currant#.

EXECUTION:      As much as possible take some speed.  Direct
frankly the canoe in the current along a 45 degree angle  or
more.  Getting in the current place yourself  in  a  leaning
position   toward  downstream  and  start  over  in   moving
propulsion as soon as possible.

STOPPING AGAINST CURRENT:

Description:  The  canoe is grab by  the  currant  you  take
advantage of a #contre currant# to stop.

EXECUTION:

Orient the canoe toward the shore you want to stop either by
a  chosen  method  #appel ou ecart# either by  a  unilateral
propulsion.

Strongly  propel  (move) in the chosen direction  so  as  to
project  the front of the canoe against the #contre  currant
or in the shelter spotted (#contre currant#).

As  soon  as  the canoe pivot and does and half  circle  put
yourself  in leaning position #position d'appui#  and  don't
let go of the shelter until the canoe is well stopped.

NOTE THE CHANGE DIRECTION IN RAPID:

You  MUST not forget that to change direction in a rapid the
canoe MUST be done quickly.

A  good  canoeist is someone who can judge  rightly  of  the
rapids  and  not take unnecessary risks, one who  knows  his
limits  and will accept them willingly. Safety is ALWAYS  at
best in survival.

TYPES OF CURRENT AND RAPIDS WATER FORMATION "V":

One  of the most current character of a rapid. There can  be
one or many. One finds the " V " at the start of rapids.

THE  GREATEST WATER QUANTITY FLOWS THROUGH " V " AND  IT  IS
USUALLY THE SAFEST WAY TO DOWN A RAPID.

If  there  are many choose the biggest. You MUST be  careful
since  at the end point, could be a rock. Usually there  are
many  waves at the point of " V " if there are, then try  to
avoid them, they hide a rock most often.

#MEAGRE (maigres)#:

It  is  formed by a low water level from the river or by  an
important  enlargement of the river.  The  water  height  is
generally   inferior  to  the  depth  of  canoe  #immersion#
(floating level?).

#The meagre# forms a barrier on the width of the river or in
part  letting only a few inches of water which will make  it
difficult  to  pass  then just look where  there  is  enough
water.

Once  recognise  the  mergers by the smallest  little  waves
which  seem  to  dance #sur les banc de gallets#  a  shallow
dive. The road to take would then be either where there  are
bigger  wave  or  where the water is calm indicating  deeper
water.

DON'T HESITATE to put your feet in the water and to haul the
canoe, pity your canoe please.

#MEANDERS#:

The  river does this when its usual track goes wild  without
reason from its normal channel flow to then come back to its
normal course after having made a wide curb.

These #meanders# are mostly found in low flat land where the
levelling off is little pronounced or steep.

In  such case the side of the stronger current is abrupt  is
constantly erode. The opposite side is in fine slope  and  a
zone  of #debris#, nick nack and wood is on the concave side
of the river.

In  canoe it is on the abrupt side that one MUST PASS for on
the other side you hit Bozo bottom ouch!

However you MUST NOT PASS too close from the abrupt side for
the  current will corner #coincera, drosser?# smack &  smash
you  against the side. You MUST try to be at the  centre  of
the river.

The  track  on the photo #164 of the arrow with the  pointed
line  shows  the  tracking  of the  strongest  part  of  the
current.

Note  that  the speed will be increase because  the  current
will be concentrated on the 1/2 of the river.

AS  LAST  ADVICE; NEVER RISK YOURSELF DOWN AN ELBOW  WITHOUT
KNOWING WHAT IS ON THE OTHER SIDE.

WAVES:

Formed by the current and water levelling. Waves formed by a
weak  or  strong level. These waves are ordinarily a  #crete
droite# and vertical.

One  has the impression that those waves are stationary  and
that  by  crossing them one stays in the same place.  Unless
they are real big they are not dangerous and easily crossed.

ROLLS: DANGEROUS  TO AVOID! #164

The  roll  is a rotative motion of the water, (washing  tub)
the wave falls downstream.

It is provoked by an underwater obstacle, rock, wood, and by
a  hole  at  the  back of the obstacle. The  roll  is  often
dangerous and to avoid. If impossible. Try Top Speed.

#RAPPEL#: VERY DANGEROUS  TO AVOID =  DEADLY!

It  is  a water movement on an important distance that comes
back   on   itself.  It  is  considered  VERY  DANGEROUS   &
UNCROSSABLE BY EXPERTS.

They  are  found  at  the base of falls #  des  seuils#  and
sometimes behind obstacles, log jams in the river.

#LE SEUIL#:

It  is a small fall and it can be crossed if there is enough
water  &  is  not followed immediately by a #  RAPPEL#.  The
start  of a #seuil# is ordinarily made of a black  "V"   but
it can extend on a part or the width of the river.

THE FALL:  (Of the angel) = DEADLY!

Composed  of  break, split in the river bed of  a  different
height,  it can sometime be passed with a decked  canoe,  it
would depend of its height, # du basin de recuperation et du
rappel# which may follow. It is clear and evident that in an
open canoe portage becomes a MUST.

MUSHROOM: (Soup?) VERY DANGEROUS:

The  wave  literally shoots up in the air. Thus producing  a
very  rapid  current where the water vein  change  direction
because of an obstacle. VERY DANGEROUS, CAPSIZING INSURED.

The  shock of the water on an obstacle creates a mixture  of
water and air that does not carry well a canoe.
#DROSSAGE#:  TO AVOID

Sudden  change  of direction of the central  vein  of  water
provoked by an obstacle, rock or cliff.

TO  AVOID BECAUSE DEADLY DANGEROUS. There is a risk to  stay
smashed, jammed against the rock in case of capsizing.

If  you MUST cross near a #drossage orient guide# the  canoe
on the obstacle upstream #en aval#.

#MARMITE CAULDRON?#:

Type  of  #Rappel#  turning  on the  horizontal  instead  of
vertical. Taken in the centre it can be DIFFICULT to get out

AI: Small  current or immobile water located at the  back
of  a rock in the middle of rapid. Very GOOD to stop the
canoe.

B: #REMOUS ET TOURBILLONS#:

Upward movement of a water mass in spiral made by 2 opposite
current   and  deep  water  in  the  river.  VERY  DANGEROUS
according  to the importance of the river current and  water
volume since it sucks to the bottom.

In  case of capsizing, Don't resist and swim to the  top  as
soon   as  the  coming  down  movement  diminishes   to   be
transformed in an upward move called #remous.#

C) CUSHION:

Small  #drossage#  upstream the rock. In case  of  capsizing
this  small mass of water ahead of the rock will permit  you
to slide on the side and to avoid being hurt.

But it is dangerous for the canoe where the canoe #cravatte#
or folded around the rock by the water pressure.

CURRENT & COUNTER CURRENT:

The  current  A is the moving of the water up to downstream.
The  counter current B is moving the water down to upstream.
This  being caused by obstacles. The water goes back to  the
obstacle and comes to create a calm zone.

This  calm zone is often used as a rest when coming  down  a
long  rapid. However to get to it you MUST cross a perturbed
zone  where  the current change direction. In crossing  this
zone  the canoe finds himself suddenly in between 2 opposite
current, one that comes down and the other that comes up.

The  canoe  will  then do a quick change of direction  while
passing in this zone and if the oarsmen don't expect it,  it
will  be  the capsizing. Yet it can be done fairly well  and
easy.

#PLANIOL #:

Calm  zone  between  rapids. We call  #pleureur#  the  water
sliding  over  a rock and not forming wave over  this  rock.
This  type  of  rock is hard to see because it  is  slightly
under water level. If one is not very careful it is easy  to
hit one or more.

To  know  where  they are, there is a creation  of  a  small
#tourbillon# after where the rock is hidden and  #the  water
level seems to split# .

As you see a rapid has quite a character so the study of the
map  or on the sight is necessary to success. So is the need
to  have  an expert on your firsts trips to show  you  along
what to do and see to look out.

#BACS#:
#REPRISE DU COURRANT# STOP AGAINST CURRENT MAPS AND RAPIDS:

Maps  are  one of your first clues as to what to  expect  on
terrain as well as rivers and rapids.

For  instance a map showing the #relief# of the terrain with
for  ex:  a   #denivellation# of 100  feet  for  an  average
distance  of  4  to 5 miles is a very good  indication  that
there will be rapids in this area.

There  exist also aerial photograph which will indicate  the
presence of rapids since with the help of a stereoscope  one
can  see the terrain in 3 dimension as one would see it from
bird flight.

DIRECT OBSERVATION:

In 90% of the cases one can hear a rapid soon enough to have
time to stop and then go & investigate unless the wind is in
the  same  direction of the current and  prevents  you  from
hearing it.

For  the 10% errors one has to master the technique of shore
landing and to do so quickly.

HOW TO JUDGE A RAPID: (GUILTY?)

Once you have heard or found a rapid the first preoccupation
MUST  be to find a place to stop as soon as possible  before
being taken in the #tourbillions#.

As  soon as a rapid is found the front oar man rises  up  in
the  canoe to locate some possible landing site and to  also
judge to which point one can advance safely.

It  is  important task for the front oarsman to have a sharp
eye  since the safety of the canoe depends of him.  Thus  he
MUST  know  very well the technique of rapids and  a  strong
knowledge to judge them well.

If one has to make a sudden URGENT stop the bow man make the
front  of the canoe to turn toward the proper side giving  a
known signal to the rest of the canoe team. Those will  then
come to help in turning the canoe around against current  to
safety.

Once  the canoe safely at shore the team study the rapid  on
all  its  angle and will decide if it is safe to cross  that
rapid or portage it.

AN IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER; is not to let the fatigue be
your guide, it is a very bad guide master.

Don't take the risk of jumping a rapid because you are tired
and don't want to make a portage.

THE  ESSENTIAL IS TO JUDGE WELL THE RAPID, ITS STRENGTH  AND
YOUR EXPERIENCE AND SHAPE. AN ERROR COULD COST LIFE.

REMEMBER  that the international classification of  a  river
going  from one to six is also with some problems,  since  a
rapid  can  be  classified as #1 to start and then  the  end
becomes a #4.

So  BE CAREFUL especially if the classification is # 4, 5 or
6,  for the last one (6); represents EXTREMELY DIFFICULT  IF
NOT  IMPOSSIBLE most of the time because of jumps, dangerous
rocks etc.

So the role of the bow man is extremely important, it is him
who  directs  the  canoe  in the  rapid  and  with  constant
vigilance to avoid ramming against a rock or tree.

The  other of the team will synchronize on his movements and
prearranged yelling signals or whistle burst will tell which
direction the canoe MUST take.

The  rear or stern man had the duty to #redresser# the canoe
giving thus the full effect of the oaring from the bow man.

CANOE TRANSPORTATION METHOD:

The  small canoe is carried by a man or 2 often the oars are
placed  inside the canoe being parallel to the  canoe  axial
having  the  oar  on the shoulder to help carry  the  canoe.
Rough  terrain  may  force you to carry the  canoe  at  arms
length as well.

In some instance when the river banks permit it one can also
use  the rope system to bring the canoe down while the  team
portage the luggage but this method MUST have been practised
before.

In  some instance only one rope is enough other you have  to
tie  both end. There are even occasions where a man  can  be
left  in  the middle of the canoe while the 2 ends are  tied
up, so as to help freeing the canoe in some difficulties.

This can be a very useful method especially with C6 type  (6
places)  canoe since they are very heavy up to  300  lbs  to
carry on some rough terrain.

Since a canoe can also fall in unknown jump it is thus  safe
and  wise to tie the bow of the canoe with 2 of the team men
tied at their waist.

NOTE OF RAPIDS:

In  Quebec there exist a book know since 1975 as "Guide  des
rivers  du  Quebec" This document is first  importance  when
choosing to do canoeing in this province. There maybe  other
books on the area where you live, it is good advice to check
it out.

SAFETY ADVICE:

In many occasions the use and wear of safety hat adapted for
canoeing has saved life so wear it please with life jacket.

THE TEAM:

The  constitution of a team well balanced is  of  the  first
importance in preparing any expeditions, here is an idea:

CHIEF:

He  has the responsibility general of all the expedition, it
is  up to him to take all URGENT decision even if in general
the  decisions are made by the team. It is up to him to  see
that each team member does his job. One ship = 1 skipper.

#CARTHOGRAPH#:

Will busy in gathering of all specialised document is so far
as maps are concerned. He will also make a detailed study of
the trip to do so as to know what to fight and expect.

Expert  in using the compass, capable to orient using stars,
with  the watch and sun and moon etc. Expert in sextant  use
also.

NOTE:     Maps should be plastified and each one has a  copy
since  they  are the near unique way to #orient# in  strange
country.

COOK:      He  will  do the menu of each day,  choosing  the
right food for the type of expedition and good knowledge  of
survival technique.

NOTE:

In  the  past  old timers used salted lard and  molasses  to
sustain  themselves,  it still is good  today,  with  beans.
REMEMBER  fat  is your most precious food in  survival.  The
cook  should have good knowledge of game & plant food  using
this book to help.

FIRST-AID:

In charge of preparing the needed medical kit to help in any
accidents  and if possible member of St. John  Ambulance  or
any accredited #secourist# membership.

SECRETARY:

One  in  charge of the social contacts before trip,  letters
and permits to obtain or to give and writing of the log book
journal of the expedition.

It  is  ALWAYS good to contact the ones that have  done  the
trip before to get information, OFTEN VITAL.

RESPONSIBLE OF THE MATERIAL:

Seek the best adapted material for the expedition, check the
good  state of the material before and during the  trip  and
knows how to repair half cut if need be.

Since  it is sure that the canoe will need repairs one  MUST
bring the repair kit even 2 if need be should one get lost.

CHOICE OF CANOE:

The  choice of the canoe type for an expedition MUST BE DONE
VERY  CAREFULLY since the canoe MUST be adapted to the  trip
to  be  done. The C 2 will be lighter in portage but if  you
MUST navigate on rough waters then a C 6 will be preferable.

Each  night  the  canoe MUST be checked and repaired  to  be
ready  in  the morning or as soon as an emergency arises  of
course.

OARS:

Since the oars are the motor of the canoe they MUST also  be
chosen carefully. Light and strong enough to do the job.

As  a  sound advice for oars to protect them, apply  a  thin
layer  of  fibreglass  on the tip they  will  be  much  more
resistant.

We tried it over a 200 miles trip and we only broke one oar.
It's a good precaution to bring a few spare oars.

OARS MUST ALWAYS BE TIED TO THE CANOE.

TENTS AND CANOE:

The  best tents are the mountain climbers tents with outside
frame,  can  be  erected on any ground; light  and  of  good
quality and it is often thought that 2 tents of 2 places are
better  for  6 persons since they are warmer but  smelly  at
times and snoring.

Oh  Well.  Don't forget your plastic, nylon  tarp  along  to
cover the material at night and the dry wood also.

LIFE-JACKET:

MUST be worn at all times by all. They MUST also protect the
neck & MUST, or should have a safety hat adapted to canoeing
& wear it.

MEDICAL TRACKING:

Before attempting a grand expedition everyone should  get  a
medical  test in order to avoid surprises along the way  and
to   have  the  doctor  help  preparing  the  first-aid  kit
required.

TRAINING:

One  does  not get in shape in one day, the best 3 exercises
are  the  swimming and walking with a full pack (maximum  35
lbs) and running.

And  in order to better the effort have a partner to run  to
swim to develop competition, endurance & determination.

Even  the  group should train together as much as  possible.
Also  the  synchronisation of the oaring movements  and  the
balance  in  the  canoe MUST be done a few days  before  the
start  of  the trip. Some dry runs are needed  to  iron  the
bugs, no one is perfect.

WEIGHT OF THE MATERIAL:

This MUST be done to avoid problems in portage. Often a  man
has  to  carry 2 packs so the grand rule remains that  there
MUST not be more backpack than there are persons.

STICK TO 35 LBS MAXIMUM.

CAMPING WHERE AND WHEN:

As much as possible in Canadian rivers camp on the west side
so as to get the sunrise in the face and far enough from the
shore  so as to avoid the tide that could get you in trouble
so install camp when the tide is high.

SOME EXERCISES TO MASTER THE CANOE:

BALANCE:

A)    Stand  up in canoe, the feet in the bottom of  the
canoe, then also on the #platbord#, alone or with team
members.

B)    2  men jumping in the water and getting  back  in  the
      canoe without capsizing.

C)     With   a  bit  of  practice  you  can  master the
      #renflouement# technique.

D)    Take  2 canoe in parallel, the 4 oarsmen hold a pail
and try to fill the other team canoe, exercise of balance
etc.

E)    Knight combat; 2 canoes cross one another as on battle
field  there are 2 men per canoe and the knight standing  up
in  the  centre holding a mop and will try to knock  of  the
other  knight  the  oarsmen can not use their  oar  to  give
blows.

F)    Race with portage or speed oaring between 2 or 3 canoe
team canoe working different formation and twist or change.

G)    These games  and  exercises  should  be under
surveillance of many vigils or safety guards in case  of
problems.

CANOE REPAIRS:

Your  ability will be to repair from a scratch caused  by  a
rock up to a broken canoe on a face on or sideswipe.


For  all repairs you will need to do a #poncage# very  large
and  very serious so as to give the material the possibility
to hold together.

Place  a  layer of flat at the exterior and a layer of  fine
roving at the interior. Note that the solidity resides  more
in a perfect application than the thickness of tissues.

#PONCAGE#:

You can use many a tool to do this

1)    A rotary sander but use the special disks used  by
      the # carrelleurs#.
2)   A wood #rape# or file for light metal.

3)    Some  sandpaper used only for the interior when you
      can not use other tools.

After  this  operation the worked part is taboo,  forbidden,
you  will  brush  it  carefully or better  pass  the  vacuum
cleaner. Beware of hands or rag more or less clean.

SHOCKS SCRATCHES CUTS (EXTERIOR):

When  your  interior tarp has not been hit,  work  only  the
exterior.

1)   #poncer (sand it?)#
2)   Prepare some layers of tissues in  growing size so that
     the superior layer  will cover the previous one.

3)   Prepare your resin with a slow drying time.

4)    Apply  the tissues this way; resin, #mat#,resin
      roving or resin cellophane for the interior.

USE OF CELLOPHANE:

Your sheet of cellophane will permit to #ebuller# your piece
also  you  will be able to spread your resin using a  rubber
spatula.

USE OF #MAT#:

It  is preferable to #dedoubler le mat and to apply 2  to  3
layers than to use it straight on as presented employer  tel
quel#.

PRECAUTION:

After having cut your pieces you MUST also #effranger" fray"
#  them  so  as not to be bothered by the thread which  will
come  off  from  the sides and specially to  facilitate  the
#accrochage.#

#BREAK OFF, CASSURE#:

In  this  case you MUST ALWAYS repair the interior and  your
piece  will  be  applied  in  superposition  so  as  not  to
#entamer#  the  mechanical structure  holds  of  your  canoe
represented by the interior layer of tissues.

Do  not  hesitate to do a serious sanding and  wide  enough;
even  overflow  from 1/2 to 1" on each side.  To  facilitate
#l'accrochage (setting) apply one layer of mat on the sanded
surface.#

HOLE: (Not Titanic)

For your hole start your repair at the interior after having
insured  your exterior form with a piece of cellophane or if
need  be  by  a piece of aluminium or #contre plaque  (press
wood)?  When the prise# is done, operate on the exterior  as
seen above.

MOULD CONSTRUCTION:

It is the easiest and quickest construction to do.

1)    Carefully  prepare the canoe by plugging  all  the
     holes even the thinnest  with Gellycoat.

2)   Wax the boat.
3)  Enduire the canoe de #demoulant#

4)    Apply 1 coat of resin, 1 coat of #mat# and resin, then
1  layer  of  thick roving and #imbibe (wet)#, then  a  thin
layer of  roving #imbibe#, then a layer of #mat# and  resin
then a layer of fine roving and #imbibe#

5)   Take the mould off.

6)    Reinforce  the mould with #contre plaque#  and  some
     pine all around and over it.

WATERWAYS:

If  a river is wide enough to be navigable it will be easier
to float on it than to walk beside it.

The  long-term survivor could experiment with making canoes
burning out the centre of a tree trunk to make a dug-out  or
covering a frame of willow with birch bark or skins.

Or  copying  boats made from reeds like those built  by  the
ancient  Egyptians  and Mesopotamian which  are  also  found
today on lake Titicaca in Peru.

All  are difficult to make well enough to stand up to  water
travel and even among the peoples for whom making them is  a
traditional skill they are usually the work of specialists.

RAFTS:

More practical for the survivor will be to construct a raft,
which  will not capsize so readily if the structure  is  not
perfect.

ALL  BOATS  AND RAFTS MUST BE SOUNDLY TESTED IN  SAFE  WATER
NEAR THE CAMP BEFORE SETTING OUT ON A JOURNEY.

In  jungle  terrain especially you my find  that  the  river
beside  which you have camped, has been swelled by  seasonal
rains to make rafting a viable proposition.

Here,  too, you may find ample timber, either bamboo  (which
is  ideal) or uprooted trees which are sound and not rotted.
If  you have to cut timber choose leaning trees for they are
the easiest to drop.

With dead falls the top of the trunk is usually sound enough
to use for a raft.

You can use oil drums or other floating objects to support a
raft  and if there is no supply of strong timber a sheet  of
tarpaulin or other waterproof material can be used as a man
carrying version of the coracle described later for floating
equipment across a river.

NEVER TAKE CHANCES:

With  a  flimsy raft on any water. On mountain rivers  there
are  often  rapids which only a really tough structure  will
survive. On the wide lower reaches there will be a long  way
to swim to the bank if you have a raft break under you.

TRAVELLING BY RAFT:

Tie  all  equipment securely to the raft or  to  the  safety
line,   MAKING SURE that nothing trails over the edges where
it could snag in shallows.

EVERYONE  ABOARD  MUST have a bowline  attached  around  the
waist and secured to a safety line or to the raft.

BAMBOO RAFT:

A  single layer will not support you unless it is very long,
so  go  for  a 2 layer model. Cut thick bamboo in 3m  (10ft)
lengths. Make holes through the canes near the ends and half
way along.

Pass  stakes through these holes to connect the canes.  Lash
each  of the canes to each of the stakes with twine,  rattan
or  other vines or cables. Make a second deck to fit on  top
of the first and lash the two together.

GRIPPER BAR RAFT:

This  is  the quickest raft to build. You need logs for  the
deck  and  four thick stakes with some pliability which  are
long  enough to overlap the width of the deck. Place two  of
the  stakes  on the ground and lay the log over them.  Place
the other stakes on top.

Tie  each  pair of stakes firmly together on one side.  Then
with  a  helper  standing on top to  force  the  other  ends
together,  tie  these so that the logs are  gripped  between
them. Notching the ends of these gripper bars will stop  the
ropes from slipping.

STEERING:

To steer the raft make a paddle rudder and mount it on an  A
frame near one end of the raft.

Secure the A frame with guy-lines to the corners of the raft
and  tie  the rudder on to it so that it does not slip.  The
rudder can also be used as a sweep for propulsion.

You  may need to notch the raft for the base of the A frame.
The  guy-lines could be tied to the cross pieces.  Lifelines
should  be  long enough to allow free movement, but  not  so
long that they trail in the water.

In  narrow  swift flowing rivers with DANGEROUS  RAPIDS  and
waterfalls; it is better not to tieyourself on.

If  the  raft  gets  out  of control and  is  swept  towards
dangerous water; it is better to head for the bank.

In  shallow water the best means of controlling  a  raft  is
like  a  punt,  but preferably with two long poles-with  one
person  poling at one front corner of the raft, and  another
at the  diagonally opposite back corner. If the survival group is
a large one, several rafts will be needed.

The  fittest  should  be  on the  first  raft,  carrying
no equipment or provisions. They can be lookouts and give
early warning  of  hazards to be avoided. If they have to
abandon their raft no kit will be lost.

Waterfalls  and  rapids can be heard some  time  before
you reach  them, and often are indicated by spray or mist
rising in the air.

If  uncertain about the safety of the stream ahead beach
or moor the raft and carry out a reconnaissance on foot.

If  you  reach  a difficult or dangerous stretch  of
water; unload  the  raft  and take to the bank,  carrying
all  the equipment downstream or the dangerous waters.

Having  posted  someone downstream where the  river
becomes safe  and  manageable to recover the raft, release
the  raft and let it drift down through the difficult
stretch. It will probably need repairing but at least you
will be safe & have all your equipment.

REMEMBER:

ONLY  RAFT  BY DAY, NEVER IN THE DARK. At night  secure
the raft  firmly - so that it will still be therein the
morningand  make  temporary shelter on higher ground away
from  the river.

BOGS AND MARSHES:

If  you  cannot  avoid crossing a marsh  make  your  way
by jumping from tuft to tuft of grass.

If you find yourself sinking into a bog "swim" with a
breaststroke to firm ground-don't try to jump.

Spreading  your  body  over  the  surface  distributes
your weight. Use the same technique in quicksand.

CROSSING RIVERS:

The  headwaters  of a river will be narrow & swift running.
Although  banks  may  be steep & rocky it  will  usually
be possible to find a place to cross.

Where  the  water is shallow you may be able to wade-but
to test ahead with a pole for hidden depths.

You  may find rocks to provide stepping stones across or
be able to place them for small streams.

Some  members of a party may be able to leap across a
narrow chasm or from boulder to boulder across the stream
bed,  but that is not much help if others cannot make it. A
slip on  a boulder  is an easy way to sprain an ankle even
to  break  a leg.

CAUTION:

The  estuary of a river is wide with strong current  and
is subject to tides-which can influence some rivers many
miles from their mouths.

AVOID  CROSSING THERE! Unless equipped with a boat or
raft, go back upstream to an easier crossing place.

On  any  wide stretch, and especially when near the sea,
do not  set  off, even with boats or rafts immediately
opposite the  point  you hope to reach, but consider how
the  current will affect your passage and make allowances.

STUDY THE WATER:

The  surface movement of a stream or river can  tell  you
a great deal about what is beneath.

The  main  flow  of the current is usually  evident  from
a chevron   shape  of  smoother  water  around  any  rock
or projection (A) the V widening downstream.

Waves that appear to stay in one position on the surface

(B) are  usually evidence of a boulder on the bottom
deflecting water upwards.

Closer  to  the surface an obstruction will create  an
eddy downstream of it where the surface water appears to
run back against the main flow.

If  a large boulder coincides with a steep drop in the
level of  the  bottom  (C)  these eddies can  produce  a
powerful backward  pull downstream of the obstruction &
pull  swimmer in.

THEY ARE VERY DANGEROUS.

WARNING! ICE COLD WATER IS A KILLER!:

Do  not attempt swimming or wading across a stream when
the water  is  at  very low temperatures, it could prove
fatal. Make a raft of some kind.

Only  wade  if you can do it without getting more than
your feet  wet  &  dry them vigorously as soon as you
reach  the other bank.

WADING ACROSS:

Even  quite  wide  rivers may be comparatively  shallow
and possible to wade across but NEVER underestimate any
stretch of water.

Cut  a  stick  to aid balance and cross facing  towards
the current  and you will be more able to avoid being
swept  off your feet.

Roll  trousers  up, so that they offer less surface  to
the current,  or if they are going to get wet anyway  take
them off so that you have them dry on the other side.

Keep  your boots on, they will give a better grip than
bare feet. Undo the belt fastening of a back-pack so that
you can slip it off easily if you get swept over.

But  don't  lose hold of it. It will almost certainly
float and you can then use it to help right yourself.

Turn  at a slight angle, your back towards the bank you
want to  reach, the current will move in that direction.
Do  not take  strides but shuffle sideways, using the
stick to  test for depth and trying each foothold before
using it.

CROSSING AS A GROUP:

If  a group of people is wading across together, they
should line  up  behind  the  strongest, who crosses  as
described above.  The others each hold the one in front at
the  waist and move in step, offering less obstruction to
the current.

Alternatively a group can link arms side-by-side and hold
on to a pole or branch & moving forwards.

Only the side of the first person opposes the current &
the group provides stability for all of them.

WARNING!  WARNING! WARNING!:

Look  out  for submerged branches. You could get tangled
in them  and wrench a limb or loose balance. When carried
along with  the current you do not notice its strength but
if  it forces you against an obstruction you can firmly held.

CROSSING WITH ROPES:

If  a  rope is available it can make wadding safer. But you need 
a  loop  of rope 3 times as long as the width of the stream and
there MUST be at least 3 people in the party.

Two  of  them ALWAYS control the rope to keep it out of
the water  as  much as possible and to haul the crosser
to  the bank if difficulties are encountered. The person
crossing is secured to the loop, around the chest. The
strongest  person crosses first.

The  other two are not tied on, they pay out the rope as
it is needed and can stop the crosser being washed away
When he reaches the bank # 1 unties himself and # 2 ties
on. #  2  crosses controlled by the others. Any number of
people can be sent across in this way.

When  # 2 has reached the bank #3 ties on and crosses.#
1 takes  most of the strain but # 2 is ready in case
anything goes wrong.

RIVERS ARE DANGEROUS:

NEVER  enter  the  water unless there are no  other  way
of getting across and choose a crossing point carefully.

1)   Avoid high banks that are difficult to  climb out on.
2)   Avoid obstructions in the water.
3)    Current  is  likely to be fastest on the   outside
of bends and steep banks there may be undercut making
landing impossible.

4)    Look for an even section of river-bed.  Shingle is
     the best surface for wading.

SWIMMING ACROSS:

If  you  can't  swim don't try. Rely on others  to  get
you across with the help of some sort of float.

Even  the  strongest swimmers should make use of
flotation aids when crossing a river and for non-swimmer
they will  be ESSENTIAL.

They  will reduce the expenditure of energy and help to
keep clothes and kit dry. Do not swim with your clothes on.

Once  wet  they will give no protection from cold. Dry
they are something warm to put on when you have crossed.

ALWAYS  MAKE SURE you have found a place on the  other
side where you will be able to get out of the water. If
there are no  beaches you will need supports to haul
yourself up on to the bank.

But  avoid tangles of branches in the water where you
might get  trapped. Enter the water well upstream to allow
for the distance that the current will carry you down as
you cross.

Better  to overestimate and be a little longer in the
water then to pass your landing place.

Check the strength of the current by watching floating
logs and   flotsam  and  study  the  water  surface  for
hidden obstructions and eddies.

If  you  hit weed in the water adopt a crawl stroke  to
cut through  it.  Once  a strong swimmer has cleared  a
passage others will be able to follow through in the
channel made.

FLOTATION AIDS:

Fuel cans, plastic bottles, logs-anything that floats can
be used. If you have a waterproof put your clothes &
belongings inside, leaving plenty of air space.

Tie the neck and then bend it over and tie again and use
it as  a  float. Hang on to it and use just your legs to
propel yourself.

Without  a bag, but with a waterproof sheet, pile twigs
and straw  into the centre to create air pockets and  then
pile your  clothes & equipment on top before tying up the
bundle securely.

DO  NOT ATTEMPT TO SIT ON THE BUNDLE OR PLACE YOUR WEIGHT
ON THEM.

With  a  group of people, split into fours. Each four
should lash  their  bags together and use them as  support
for  an injured member of the party or a non-swimmer.

If no waterproof is available make a small raft or a
oracle to float  your  things on. Bundle your  belongings
and  if heavy, make the raft 2 layered so that only the
lower  sinks into the water and your kit stays dry.

MAKING A CORACLE:

There  is  a real art to building a traditional coracle
and confidence is require to use it.

Follow  the method below, make a paddle & test your
coracle in safe shallow water to see how it handles.

Before you begin, MAKE SURE you have a waterproof cover
for it,  tarpaulin, ground-sheet, poncho, or animal  skins
will do.

Fats and tree resins are good for waterproofing. Cut
springy saplings 2m (6.5ft) long-hazel and willows are
ideal.

Stick the ends of one in the ground to form an arch and
then add  others  across it to form a dome at  about  25cm
(9in) intervals. Tie them together at the apex.

Tie a sapling around at ground level and another half-way
up to keep the shape and pull the whole structure free
from the ground. Trim off most of the saplings that
project above the upper edge.

Cover the frame with polythene, tarpaulin,  poncho or
animal skins, sewn with twine or thonging around the upper
edge.

Obviously do not pierce below the "waterline". To save
heavy woodworking a paddle could be made from a sapling
loop, tied to a pole and covered in waterproof material.

RIVER CROSSING:

One of the principal hazard in cross country travel is
river crossing. If the walker is a swimmer the pack can be
wrapped in a ground-sheet which has its corners and loose-
folds tied together.

This will support the traveler who holds the pack in his
hands and by kicking with his legs he can cross safely
with his pack.

It is advisable to tie a short length of rope to the wrist
so that if the pack slips from the hands it can be recovered.

It is inadvisable to try swimming a river with your
walking boots. Take them off and place them in the pack in
the ground-sheet.

If a party of 4 or more are crossing, tie 2 or 3 packs
together after each has been put in its ground-sheet. One
party stands by on the bank while the other party crosses.

ALWAYS place a layer of fern or grass or small brush
beneath your pack before folding the ground sheet on it.

If your ground sheet leaks slightly, this will give your
pack an inch or two clearances and keep it dry. t

With a frame rucksack, lay your frame uppermost, with a
swag, place your swag roll and dilly bag side by side
before folding the ground-sheet.

BOLSTER RAFTING:

Small bolsters made of ground sheets can be rolled up and
lashed together if there is a party traveling together.

This makes an excellent raft, stable and buoyant for
ferrying the party along the river or to crossing the river.

TESTING FLOATABILITY ALWAYS:

BEFORE ANYTHING ONE MUST TEST THE FLOATABILITY OF THE
TRUNK OR OF RAFT.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT POINT TO CHECK, ESPECIALLY UNDER THE
TROPICS since many trees don't float specially the Palm
tree which does not float even when dry.

PUT IN TROPICRAFTING:

Raft stays one of the oldest way to travel on water and is
the safest and most rapid way to cross a river or to
travel in most places.

However it is a long tiring job even with the proper
equipment to do so in survival conditions but if raft
becomes indispensable go for it, this may be your most
salutary decision & wisest move.

The Spruce wood of polar and subpolar regions makes the
Best Raft although any dry wood will do as well as the
bamboo from the Tropics. Each trunk going to built the
raft MUST be first roll into the water to assure its
floatability.

One can construct a raft without nail nor ropes when one
has an ax and a knife. 3 men are quite comfortable on a 12
by 6 feet raft with some equipment.

NOTCHES CONSTRUCTION RAFT:

Construct the raft on 2 sleigh logs which are beveled so
that you can slide them on the beach. One log is easy to
handle but a full raft is a lot harder to move.

Level the 2 main logs with the ax so that the other logs
forming the plat form will adjust themselves uniformly.

Near the ends of each cut a notch on the superior and
inferior face, while  MAKING SURE  that those notches are
NOT facing one another, the bottom of those notches MUST
be wider than its opening.

To join together all raft logs, trust in every notch a 3
faces piece of wood which length will exceed by 30cm the
width of the raft. Start on one side then end by the other.

To each end of the raft attach each one of the 2 three
faces pieces of wood so as to consolidate the whole thing.

When the raft is put to float, those pieces will swell and
will tighten the entire construction.

If those pieces don't tighten strongly enough, jam them
with small thin piece of wood which will swell when
wetting.

PRESSURE BAR RAFT:

Easier to built than above; and faster as well. Take 4
main logs align them over and under the platform logs (7
of them).

Make notches into the 4 main supporting logs so that the
platform ones will fit snugly with them, you can also to
make it tighter fit, ax notches to the platform log. (Not
a necessity).

Once both side are well fitted just rope together the pressure
bars logs which extend about 1 to 1 1/2 feet past the platform
dig a notch in each opposite face which will be used to anchor
your rope & act as pressure bar.

OTHER RAFT:

Using a tarp or 1/2 a tent or any other waterproof
material, one can make an excellent raft which carpentry
will be made of brushes insuring its floatability.

ICE RAFT:During winter in northern regions when the
middle of a river does not ice up because of the
strength of the current,  one can cross this river by
improvising a raft with an ice block using an ax.

If there is a split in the ice, one can detach a great
surface using a pole. This improvised raft MUST measure 2
by 3 meters and at least 30cm in thickness. The pole is
also used to push the ice raft in the wanted direction.

FORDING WITH A RAFT:

One can cross in a raft over a river which is deep
cold and fast raging while using the  perpendicularly
movement which animates the surface waters in the river curbs.

This method is useful when there are many persons to cross
over but you MUST fill those following requirements.

The raft MUST be maintained to a certain angle in report
to current direction.

The cable length starting from its attaching point MUST be
equal to 7 to 8 times the width of the river.

The attach to raft cable MUST be adjustable so that it
MUST be possible to change the angle of the raft in report
to the current direction, so that it can return back to
the starting point shore.

RAFTS:

3 long logs, STANDING wood, test float BEFORE! (Bundled
plants, limbs OK!) Notch to fit or lash. Square raft will
spin. Listen ahead for rapids.

RAFT AUTO PILOT:

Rock or pail trailing short rope from front center, keeps
raft in main channel.

ROUND BOAT:

Stretch waterproof material over domed frame of Willow
sticks.

INDIAN RAFTING:

With trappers it has been seen an astonishing one. An
Indian having killed a beaver at 300 feet from the shore,
had to go and get it while it still floated. It was fall
and the water was too icy for him.

He then cut 3 dry logs about 15 feet long and 9 inches
in diameter and place them in a fan shape in the water,
upon which he just threw about 15 big spruce branches
across his 3 logs as a platform.

At about 1/3 of the way at back to 1/2 half depending of
weight and amount or type of branches at times.

He then took a 12 foot pole and pushes his raft toward
the open water to get his beaver safely and back while
he threw a fishing net for added work. He came back some
15 minutes later with its beaver.

It may surprise you how while using no rope or tie
whatsoever it could still remain together the branches
and logs. But why any ties, since there is no need.

The Indian own weight on the floor mat of branches and
the opposite pressure coming from underneath, (the one
making the logs to float) is more than enough to retain
all the raft together without any other support.

But try it only on calm water lake or slow river unless
you really have to.

The reason 3 long logs can be used so satisfactorily for
such a job is that it can be readily paddled or pole
depending of the water long oar, sweep or some other
rudder arrangement.

A shore square raft on the other hand has too much
tendency to spin. You can decide to lash it with rope,
vine, roots, spikes or even by burning out the necessary
openings.

NOTCHING LOG RAFT #2:

Lay the 3 logs in position near the water, assure their
floatability before of course.

You will then need 2 substantial crosspieces across the
top, one near each end. A couple of tough rugged poles
will do.

Set these in places and mark on the logs beneath where
each pole is to go. Then cut 6 notches so that each is
narrow at the top widening as it goes deeper into the log.

When the 2 crossing pieces are finally driven through
each series of 3 notches the fit should be snug. Once
the raft has been allowed to soak, it will then be more
firmly interlocked.

SOME RULES OF RAFTING:

You will be only prudent if you take every possible
precaution when using such a raft particularly under the
stress and uncertainty of emergency condition.

Keep listening and watching as far ahead as possible for
some notable patches of bad water which often give NO
Warning until a rapid is almost on you. For this reason
it is good to scout ahead whenever this is at all feasible.

If you have a rope you may be able to line the raft through
rapids while walking safely along or near the shore.

Otherwise you will probably do better to let the raft go with the
idea of retrieving it later if that is possible.

You will have to provide as well as you can for the safety
of any outfit you may have along in 2 ways:

Either by tying it to the raft or, packing it in as
waterproof a bundle as you can manage with some provision,
such as the inclusion of a chunk of light dry wood under
so that it floats.

MAKE YOUR OWN AUTOMATIC PILOT:

One day you may find  yourself on Brion or floating alone
on such a raft or down a broad sluggish river like many in
the North.

A rock or pail or any old container plastic or metal which
is hung beneath the conveyance by a short line affixed to
the front center of the latter will automatically tend to
keep your carrier in a main channel.

Besides thus acting as a guide, this arrangement can also
conserve a lot of energy spent needlessly in boooooring
dreary hours of steering.

FINDING AN OUTLET:

To locate the outlet of a quiet bayou body of water is to
float bannocks crumbs or bits of some other light
substances and to observe which way they drift. (To the
BAR maybe?)

WAVES WARNING:

In connection with water there is one special precaution that any
one venturing along a rocky open sea coast MUST HEED.

That is to hold fast at the first feasible spot upon the
approach of a BIG wave.

Deliberately choosing to get wet rather than taking the
chance of running across uncertain footing and thus
risking in many exposed area the Very Real PERIL of being
INJURED and even to be swept away and drowned.

VISIBILITY:

Visibility is sometimes so deceptively restricted in
dangerous terrain, that it is foolhardy to keep going.
Seek shelter & Wait.

RAFTING PART 2 OR 3:

Construction wood MUST ALWAYS be dry & able to float. And
that the density of wood being average 0.8%. In other word
100kg of wood well dry gathered as raft could only carry 20kg.

You MUST then add floaters such as wood barrel or metal or
boosters (grass or fern and bush wrapped up in waterproof
ground-sheet tent material and tied together with or
without wood underneath, and some wood or fern or grass of
some leakage).

PLASTIC FLOATERS:

Rubber mattress or tire tubes, or Javel plastic bottle
container type with CAP on, of  course will act well as
floaters and easy to lash to a log in single or double
file all along will act as new space age survival 2001.

Also 4 to 6 to 8 put in pairs and under each underarm even
in the crotch could be well used as life jacket of sea
survivors.

Lot of deserted beaches, now have a lot of pollution
ropes, & plastic containers of all kind for many purposes.

PLASTIC ROPE SUPER HOT FIRE:

Plastic rope found on most beaches give a strong and quick
fire. Throw it  in a fire going already and see the
temperature rise fast.

RUBBER RAFTING:

Made of 5 cars or trucks air tube linked by a light frame
stick of wood or aluminum or plastic tubes (5) and cover
over by a light floor, (brush or water proof material in
bundles). Use the floor mats as sails.

REED BAMBOO RAFTS:

The reed has about 1.5cm in diameter at the big end and 2
meter long. Cut them at the closest of its root and make
tight "boot" rolls of about 50 to 60 to 80cm in
circumference with strings or rope or root or fibrous bark
etc. linking them at each end.

Make 2 frames with your walking stick or a pole of 20cm
less than one of your tight "boot" roll in size and put it
together.

UBAS?:

 Qu'es aco? Mah Radash? Is it fattening?

Here are the plans of the military secret of these
primitive Karajas Indians of South America, oh well we
learn from all.

If you camp near a river or near the sea, you will
certainly find an old tree trunk yet big enough to carry
your own weight.

To each end of the trunk attach a lattice across. To each
end of the lattice fix a small log piece and tie a series
of plastic containers This will make 4 floaters which will
prevent the trunk to overturn and insure its stability.
Safety caution comes first.

At the center and on each side of the trunk attach a small
log which will be used as a foot rest. For the shape of
this raft and speed beveled the ends of the logs.

Shape wise it looks like a fine square or rectangle
crossed by a heavy log dead center underneath.

7TH WAVE = BIGGEST:

The 7th wave is the biggest so if you plan in launching
your raft away from the reef or shore use that one to
carry you in or out depending of the need at the time.